Córdoba was stop nine of our Andalusian adventure (previous stops were Malaga, Granada, Ubeda, Seville, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Jerez de la Fronterra, Cadiz, and Ronda).
We arrived in Córdoba via train from Ronda. The trip took us 2.5 hours (including a one-hour connection at Antequera-Santa Ana). We did know of our stop in Antequera-Santa Ana and assumed that, as it is a part of the AVE network and seems a major connection point, we would be able to find some lunch there but that was not the case when we visited. We booked our trip directly with Renfe and paid €60.00 per ticket.
Even before our visit to this amazing city, we had fallen in love with Andalusia, both modern and historic. As we wandered through the narrow, cobblestone streets of the historic Jewish Quarter of Córdoba, discussing how many languages had been spoken here, how many different religious rites practised, how many songs and dances had been performed over the centuries, how many foods eaten, and how many different prayers offered we realized that these questions (and their answers) are the essence, beauty, and wonder of this region.
There is a regular debate about whether to spend more time, in Cordoba or Granada – based on the experience of our trip, the answer is hands down more time in Granada. We spent two and a half days in Cordoba which we felt was the right amount of time.
In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.
Staying (prices are from February 2024)
AC Hotel Córdoba (map) (Av. de la Libertad, 24)
The modern and business visitor focused, AC Hotel Córdoba, is a 5-minute walk from the train station and an interesting 20-minute walk to the centro histórico.
This is a typical AC brand experience, modern, comfortable but a bit bland.
The staff at the reception desk were friendly and helpful.
We stayed here on a points redemption.
Recommended.
Eating (prices are from February 2024)
Taberna La Bodega (map) (C. de Alhaken II, 4, 6, Centro)
Taberna La Bodega is a classic tavern located in a side street of Av. Del Gran Capitan.
We visited on a rainy Friday evening and the place was packed, mainly with locals, which is always a good sign.
We managed to snag a couple of seats on one of the communal tables in the bar area and order a couple of tapas and glasses of wine. The rustic, bullfighting-themed decor with placards, trophies, photos and large wooden barrels makes for a welcoming and authentic atmosphere.
One of specialties of the house is their take on salmorejo, a chilled tomato soup which is quite a bit thicker than a gazpacho. A half portion (or media) was €4.00. We also ordered a half portion of espinacas con garbanzo (spinach and chickpeas) at €8.50. Both were delicious.
The service was fantastic, and we were made to feel very welcome indeed.
Expect to pay around €2.50 for a glass of wine.
Highly recommended.
Regadera (map) (Rda. de Isasa, 10)
We were told by some friends that if we were in Córdoba we had to make a reservation and eat at Regadera, how right they were!
Located right on the riverbank in the centro historico, the dining room is modern, airy, vibrant and welcoming. The open kitchen adds to the flair.
To start we shared cabbage stuffed with mushrooms, ceps and walnuts and a salad of warm asparagus with iberico ham. For our mains we chose the leg of spring lamb and the suckling pig. All followed by a shared desert of panna cotta. I can report that everything we tried was absolutely delicious and beautifully presented.
On top of the food, the service was fantastic and hugely contributed to making this one of the standout dining experiences of our trip.
We paid €120.00 (including €22.00 for a nice bottle of red wine).
Highly recommended.
Mercado Victoria (map) (P.º de la Victoria, s/nº)
Housed in a 19th-century iron structure in the lovely Victoria Gardens, the Mercado Victoria boasts around 30 diverse food stalls, offering a wide range of cuisines from traditional Córdoban to international flavors including Arabic, Mexican, Japanese, and Argentinian.
In addition to the many food options, Mercado Victoria also has several bars offering a great selection of wine and beer.
Find yourself a table, get a drink, and then go get food from wherever grabs your eye. Get another drink, try something different to eat. Repeat!
This is a particularly lively and fun spot. A perfect place to while away a few hours.
Highly recommended.
Drinking (prices are from February 2024)
Atrio Café (map) (Av. del Gran Capitán, 32)
We really enjoyed our visit to Atrio on our first night in Córdoba.
A café by day and lively bar by night, Atrio is based around the cobblestoned patio terrace shaded by orange trees, of a beautiful 19th century building. The drinks menu has an extensive list of gin and tonic options and other cocktails.
When we arrived, around 6.00pm on a Friday evening, the place was humming with every table occupied with happy people enjoying the start of their weekends. We luckily managed to snag a table just as a group was leaving.
As we ordered our drinks (beer at €3.00 and wine at €2.50) the heavens opened and we hid from the rain under an awning that the staff promptly opened. Rather than being a disappointment this turned out to be one of those beautiful moments as we struck up a “conversation” with a group of friends who had also sought coverage from the rain. Across language differences, we managed to talk (with some help from Google) about friendship, the beauty of southern Spain, and the wonders of Córdoba.
Recommended.
Agora Mezquita (map) (C. Céspedes, 11)
A pleasant little courtyard and bar in the old part of Cordoba easily identified by the many flowerpots adorning the walls. You can imagine that in full bloom, this would be a most welcoming oasis.
We popped in here for a drink on our way to dinner and luckily found a table on a bustling Saturday evening.
The service was a bit slow but friendly, nonetheless. Expect to pay around €3.00 for a glass of wine and €2.80 for a beer
.
Recommended.
Doing (prices are from February 2024)
Mezquita of Córdoba (map)
Our trip of Andalusia taught me again how uninformed I am of the history of our beautiful and precious planet. I had some passing awareness of the influence of Islam on Southern Spain, but it turned out to be so superficial that I was embarrassingly unprepared for the wonders we saw on this trip.
After visits to the Alhambra of Granada, the Alcázar of Seville, and the Muslim palaces and fortresses of Malaga and Jerez de la Frontera I thought I had seen it all and believed I had come to some understanding of the history of Andalusia. How wrong I was, again.
As you step into the hallowed halls of the Mezquita, the Great Mosque of Córdoba, you find yourself transported through centuries of history, faith, and cultural fusion. I had the overwhelming feeling that here is, above all other places visited, the clearest representation of the complex interplay of the religions and civilizations that have shaped Andalusia’s and Spain's identity.
Walking through the forest of candy-striped double arches, you can easily imagine the call to prayer from over a thousand years ago. Yet, in the most amazing juxtaposition of space and religion, Mass has now been celebrated here for nearly 800 years. In 1236, following the Christian Reconquista, the mosque was converted into a cathedral with the new cathedral rising prominently from the middle of the mosque's expansive hall. The contrast between the Islamic and Christian architectural elements is simply jaw dropping.
We paid €17.00 for General tickets. Do book in advance.
When you have finished your visit to the Mezquita (allow 2 to 3 hours), take a walk across The Roman bridge of Córdoba, which has spanned the Guadalquivir River since the early 1st century BC. Roman, Islamic, and Christian history laid out in front of you!
Andalusia finds itself at the center of contemporary debates over identity, migration, immigration, and assimilation. Perhaps now more than ever, it falls upon Spain—and Andalusia in particular—to lead the way.
Hammam Al Ándalus (map) (C. Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, 51)
We wanted to experience a Hamman during our trip and selected Hammam Al Ándalus in Córdoba. This is a chain with locations across the south of Spain and Madrid.
You don’t need to take anything with you, except your bathing suit. You will be met at the entrance, provided a towel, and directed to well-equipped changing rooms. After a shower you will be led to the main bathing room which has a lovely big warm pool. Surrounding the main pool are hot and cold pools, a steam room, and separate areas for relaxing and drinking tea.
One of the hosts will come and collect you when it’s time for your massage (if you selected the option) and couples can share that experience. After your massage you are encouraged to head back to the main pool area and enjoy the remainder of your time.
We found this to be a relaxing and enjoyable experience, delivered by a very friendly and welcoming team.
There are various options at the Hammam, we chose the “Mimma-30” which consisted of 75 minutes in the baths and a 30-minute massage. We paid €65.00 per person.
Highly recommended.
Comments