Jerez de la Frontera was stop six of our Andalusian adventure (previous stops were Malaga, Granada, Ubeda, Seville, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda).
We arrived in Jerez via taxi from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The ride took 35 minutes and we paid €50.
The phrase "de la Frontera" in Jerez de la Frontera's name harkens back to its past as a frontier town. During the Reconquista, when Christian forces were steadily reclaiming land from the Moors, Jerez stood on the dividing line between Christian and Muslim territories. This historical significance is captured in its name, with "de la Frontera" translating to "of the frontier" in Spanish.
Today, the city of Jerez de la Frontera is known for its rich cultural heritage, including its historic center, sherry production, and flamenco music. We found the city to be charming, welcoming, and fascinating.
We spent three days in Jerez, which felt just about right to get a good feel for the city and see the main sites. We met several people who have come back time and time again to enjoy its many charms. I’m sure we will also visit again.
In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.
Staying (prices are from February 2024)
Hotel Bodega Tio Pepe (map) ( Pl. Encarnación)
Bodega Tio Pepe is a lovely hotel in the historic center of Jerez de Fronterra.
The hotel is perfectly located next to Jerez Cathedral and the Alcazar; is just a short walk to the many bars and restaurants of the old town; and is connected to the historic Bodega González Byass.
Our room (23) was extremely comfortable (the bed, in particular, was wonderful). The bathroom was large, luxurious, and well equipped with amenities.
The hotel has a large rooftop terrace with the most amazing views over the Catedral, Alcazar, and Bodega. The terrace has bar service in the late afternoon / early evening and a nice pool for the warmer months.
Breakfast (which was included in our stay) was served in the breakfast room and consisted of both hot and cold choices. It was perfectly decent.
The best thing about Bodega Tio Pepe was the welcoming, relaxed, and calming vibe which was entirely due to the truly excellent team of staff.
We paid €160 per night including taxes.
When we come back to Jerez, we'll choose this hotel again.
Highly recommended.
Eating (prices are from February 2024)
Pedro Nolasco Restaurant (map) (Pl. Encarnación)
Our first evening in Jerez was that of the dreaded Valentine’s Day. We went for the easy option and made a reservation at Pedro Nolasco, conveniently attached to the Hotel Tio Pepe.
This is a lovely space focused on traditional Jerez cuisine. Predictably, they were pushing a tasting menu with a wine pairing that evening. We chose one fish forward menu and one meat based. I must say that they had some of the best gluten free bread I have tasted.
Overall, the food was lovely, but we regretted not choosing to go with the flexibility of a la carte dining. The service was a tad slow, but the restaurant was busy with every seat taken.
Paid €90.
Recommended
Chicuelo (map) (C. San Pablo, 20)
A rambling walk fortuitously landed us in front of Chicuelo at lunch time.
The dining room has an open, courtyard like feel, with lots of light and greenery. It was quite full giving the place a welcoming and upbeat vibe.
We shared a wonderfully fresh tomato and tuna salad to start and then shared some half portions of grilled artichokes, tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters), and some crispy cheese and shrimp pastries. Friendly and attentive service.
Paid €45 (including 4 glasses of wine).
Highly recommended.
Rigodon (map) (C. Basantes, 2)
We loved this restaurant on the lively Plaza Plateros.
We had been searching for some spicier food and stumbled across Rigodon. The menu is eclectic and offers tastes from around the world including many vegetarian options.
We ordered a tartiflette (a creamy and comforting oven bake of potatoes, cream and bacon) to start and then a chicken curry and a chicken and plum tagine for our entrees. All the food was delicious.
The space is cozy, with a nice ambience. Service was on point.
Paid €55 (including two glasses of wine each).
Highly Recommended
Drinking (prices are from February 2024)
Tabaco San Pablo (map) (C. San Pablo, 12)
A traditional tabanco, which is a Jerez institution, not far from Plaza del Arenal. We stopped by for a couple of drinks and some tapas in the middle of the afternoon.
A great house fino (€1.70) and ok chicharrónes (€3.20).
Recommended.
Tabanco El Pasaje (map) (C. Sta. María, 8)
You really should visit this tabanco while you are in Jerez. As well as being the oldest in town, Tabanco El Pasaje is famous for its flamenco shows, of which there are three a day (2:00 p.m., 7:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m). You can book both shows and food in advance, or like us, you can just turn up.
By now we had become accustomed to the tabanco vibe and happily squeezed into the small, crowded bar, made our way to bar and ordered some drinks and plate of cheese. As you would expect, they have excellent sherry, try the fino and amontillado (€2.00 a glass).
Walking in without a dinner reservation meant that we had only had a glimpse of the performers, but we were able to hear and feel the passion in the voices, guitars, and percussive clapping. It was more than amazing.
Highly Recommended.
La Frontera de Jerez (map) (C. Angostillo de San Dionisio, 2)
This is a lively bar with a great selection of beer – including local craft brews. We went on Sunday afternoon and the place was heaving, luckily, we were able to score a table outside and in the sun.
Nice energy and great people watching.
Expect to pay €5.00 for a glass of their beer (I tried and enjoyed the “Brutus”) and €2.50 for a white wine.
Highly Recommended.
Tabanco Plateros (map) (C. Algarve, 35)
We really enjoyed Tabanco Plateros, located just off the Plaza Del La Yerba. We visited on a Friday night as the good people of Jerez were starting their weekends.
To say the place was buzzing would be an understatement! It was crowded both inside and outside, but we managed to nab some standing space inside and just enjoyed watching people enjoying themselves.
Expect to pay €2.50 for a white wine and €1.60 for a house sherry. Try a fino or manzanilla first and then do try the oloroso de la casa. Delicious!
Highly Recommended.
Doing (prices are from February 2024)
Alcazar of Jerez (map) (Calle Alameda Vieja, s/n)
The Alcazar of Jerez is small compared with those we had previously seen in Malaga, Granada, and Sevilla, however, it is still very much worth a visit.
We enjoyed exploring the palace, the old pharmacy, the ruins, baths, towers and gardens. Great vistas across the region and lots of really interesting history.
Give yourself up to two hours.
Entry is €5 per person with a free audio guide - make sure your phone is charged.
Highly recommended.
Jerez Catedral (map) (Pl. Encarnación)
The Catedral of Jerez de la Frontera is wonderful, blending Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical styles.
Like so much of Andalusia, the Catedral stands as a testament to the region's rich and complex heritage, with its octagonal dome and separate bell tower originally built on the minaret of an old mosque.
This is a beautiful building of worship and worthy of a visit.
Give yourself up to 1.5 hours.
Entry is €8 per person.
Highly recommended.
Bodegas Tio Pepe Tour (map) (C. Manuel María González, 12)
Jerez is one corner of the sherry triangle (the cities of Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María being the others) and is especially known for its fino sherry.
Bodegas Tío Pepe is a must-visit destination for anyone curious about sherry and the history of Jerez itself.
This historic winery, part of the renowned González Byass, is next door to the Hotel Tio Pepe and offers tours for visitors to explore its vast cellars (the signed barrels are fun), learn about the solera aging process, and enjoy tastings of their finos and other sherry varieties.
Entry is €20.80 per person (which includes two tastings and a short ride on the Tío Pepe express!).
Highly Recommended.
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