Seville is the vibrant and welcoming capital of Andalusia, Spain. The largest city in southern Spain, Seville is a melting pot of Moorish, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architectural styles and wears the weight of its rich and varied history with confidence.
We arrived in Seville by rental car (Europcar) and it was an easy return process at Sevilla Train Station. We took an Uber (which are plentiful) to our Airbnb. By this time, we had been travelling for 2 weeks and having the extra space of an apartment, the ability to make some of our own meals, and a washer dryer was most welcome.
The downtown of Seville is endlessly fascinating and extremely walkable. It projects both a historical presence and at the same time a modern, youthful exuberance – which probably explains why the Setas de Sevilla just seem to fit in so well and are so adored.
We spent five days in Seville and for first time visitors this is just about right – maybe a day less would be ok as well. We had some unsettled weather which reduced our wanderings a bit.
Seville was stop four on our Andalucian road trip. Check out the trips reports of our previous stops of Malaga, Granada, and Ubeda trip reports. Would love your feedback.
In the sections below, I have only listed places personally visited.
Staying (prices are from February 2024)
AirBnB, Calle Santa Paula, 12 (map)
This AirBnB was located in the extremely fun (and hipster) neighbourhood of Feria. It was an interesting 20-minute walk to the Cathedral of Seville and also just a few minutes away from the many bars and restaurants of Calle Feria and Alameda de Hercules.
The apartment itself was in a lovely building (directly opposite the Monastery of Sta Paula) with a classic central courtyard, a pool for the warmer months, and a nice roof top terrace.
The apartment was very pleasant, well equipped, and with a comfortable bed. A big plus was the communal washer and dryer (in a side room on the terrace). Do expect the bells from the Monastery to chime from 8.00am until 8.00pm.
The hosts were excellent with their communication and instructions. They made the whole process very easy and stress free.
Would definitely stay here again. Highly recommended
We paid €115.00 per night including all taxes.
Eating (prices are from February 2024)
La Cochera del Abuelo (map) (C. Álvaro de Bazán, 2)
Located in the lovely San Lorenzo district, not far from the hipster hangout that i Alameda de Hércules, La Cochera del Abuelo (or Grandfathers Garage) was recommended on several sites in my pre-trip research, and so a reservation was made for 8.30pm on the night of our arrival.
Even at 8.30pm we were the first people in the restaurant which meant we had the full attention of the front of house team, including the owner. The décor and atmosphere are very warm and welcoming – especially on a wet February evening.
We ordered the soup of the day and some cured salmon to start followed by a white bean stew with fish and a grilled loin of iberian pork. The food was wonderful and the presentation classy. Could not praise the service any higher.
We paid €93.50 (including a bottle of Verdejo). Highly recommended.
Filo (map) C. Hernando Colón, 19)
This was a bustling café, close to the Cathedral, that our friend Stephane had found and recommended for lunch and a good catch up.
We ordered three salads and coffees. I must say that my Thai salad really hit the spot – I had been craving some spice and sour. My lunch companions were equally happy!!
I do want to add that the team at Filo were very charming and very diverse. It struck me as a place where you are welcome, irrespective of background. Seville is better for it being there.
We paid €36.50. Recommended.
Delantal Negro (map) (Pl. los Maldonados, 5)
Just off the eclectic and sometimes chaotic Calle Feria lies Delantal Negro, offering a varied and interesting menu that is middle eastern forward.
We ate here on a Friday night and were lucky to get a table as every other seat had been reserved, clearly a popular place.
We started with a quinoa salad and a tapa sized plate of hummus to share and entrees of tajine and an entrecote. The food was lovely and the service charming.
We paid €61.80 Euros (including two glasses of wine each). Highly recommended.
Grosso Napoletano Senza Glutine (map) (Alameda de Hércules, 46)
It was a wet (very wet) Sunday afternoon and the urge to find a warm, welcoming place for lunch was strong and the urge for pizza even stronger.
Grosso Napoletano is a chain of pizza restaurants with branches throughout Spain. Uniquely, they have dedicated gluten free restaurants including one in the northern end of Alameda de Hércules.
Making an airy, chewy, gluten free crust is a challenge and takes much more time and effort than traditional crust. I must say that the gluten free crust at Grosso Napoletano is, without doubt, the best I have had outside of Napoli.
We shared a grilled eggplant parmigiana to start and then ordered a pizza each. The pizzas were excellent. Dee, who is not gluten free, also enjoyed!! We had enough pizza left over for dinner.
We paid €61.60 Euros (including a bottle of delicious Falanghina). Highly recommended.
Casa Cuestra (map) (C. Castilla, 1)
Taking a long walk on Sunday morning we ended up in the vibrant neighbourhood of Triana and having lunch at Casa Cuestra.
There was some watery sunshine so we took a seat outside this bodega which has been serving customers for 135 years.
We ordered a Carrillada (stewed pork cheek in a thick sauce) and an Espinacas Con Garbanzos (a stew of spinach and chickpeas). The food was ok, not great.
We paid €45.00 Euros (including a glass of wine each). Ok, but not worth going out of your way for.
As we left Casa Cuestra to walk back home, we discovered that we had been no more than a 2-minute walk from Mercado de Triana and its bustling bars and restaurants. We regretted not having done our research – The Mercado seems like it would have been a much more enjoyable place to have lunch.
Drinking (prices are from February 2024)
Bicicleteria (map) (C/ 36, C. Feria)
Very hip and very small best describes Bicicleteria.
This tiny Ferria bar boasts walls adorned with an eclectic mix of items, including old bikes, and bric-a-brac. It’s known for brilliant music (both recorded and live), and a relaxed, anything goes, vibe.
You will pay around €3.00 per wine or beer – please note cash only!!
Highly recommended.
Bar Casa Vizcaíno (map) (C. Feria, 27)
Also on Calle Feria is Casa Vizcaíno, a beloved Sevilla institution.
Casa Vizcaíno is renowned for its exceptional vermouth, which is served amidst a charming atmosphere of blue-and-white azulejo tiles and sawdust-covered floors. Waiters scribble down tabs on the bar top.
This place is jammed in the evenings and seems like a local’s club. So, take a deep breath, slide up to the bar, order some drinks and become a local!
You will pay around €2.80 per glass of wine and get a plate of their famous olives.
Highly recommended.
La Federal (map) (C. Feria, 33)
This is a great little bar on Calle Ferrie.
La Federal has a small drinks and tapas menu, but super friendly staff, a cool interior, and nice clientele all commend this place for a visit or two.
Now, I have drunk a few beers over my life and thought I had seen it all. However, if you order a beer at La Federal you will have a totally unique experience. They somehow chill their bottles of beer, so they emerge with chunks of ice attached. They are served on metal plates to catch the water as the ice melts… well, I never…
You will pay around €3.00 per beer or glass of wine. Highly recommended.
Doing (prices are from February 2024)
What can I possibly say of Sevilla’s monuments that has not already been said by people far, for, more eloquent than me?
Seville Cathedral (map) (Av. de la Constitución)
Simply magnificent - if you are in Sevilla you will visit.
Get a ticket that includes the Giralda (Bell Tower). The walk up is a sloping ramp with just a few stairs at the top and well worth it for the views of the city. I can imagine, however, that it might be a bit uncomfortable at the height of the tourist season.
Give yourself 2 to 3 hours.
€17.00 per person for the Cathedral and Giralda (including an audio guide). Book online to avoid the lines.
Alcázar of Seville (map) (Casco Antiguo)
Again, simply magnificent, and again, if you are in Sevilla, you will visit.
Give yourself 2 to 3 hours.
€21.00 per person for the Alcázar and the Cuarto Real Alto. Book online to avoid the lines. This price does not include an audio guide. You can rent traditional audio guides after security or pay for an audio guide on your phone (make sure it is fully charged).
Plaza de Espanol (map) (Av. Isabel la Católica)
A sunny Sunday morning in Sevilla saw us taking a meandering walk from our Airbnb in Ferria down to the Plaza de Espanol, though the Parque de María Luisa, along the lovely and lively embankment of the Guadalquivir, to the neighbourhood of Triana. A lovely stroll.
The vast Plaza de Espanol is a lavish decorated plaza built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition. Its architecture and ceramics are jaw dropping.
Give yourself one hour or so to visit.
As at the time of writing, there are rumours that visitors will soon have to pay.
Setas de Sevilla (map) (Pl. de la Encarnación)
The Setas de Sevilla, also known as the Metropol Parasol, has become one of Sevilla’s must-see attractions.
Not looking, we stumbled across them while on a stroll and it was quite striking to come across this “urban forest” in a built-up part of the city. It’s a nice space being enjoyed by many people. There are bars and restaurants underneath and around.
We did not do the walking tour on top of the structure. The views are meant to be quite lovely, especially at sunset.
Comments